hello all - Mitsubishi #31

matt · Post by **matt** » Fri Nov 11, 2016 1:46 am

yes, the board is mine. it is ver 0.2. ignore about a red line. I am accidentally draw since my android phone got a cracks screen.

kb1gtt · Post by **kb1gtt** » Fri Nov 11, 2016 10:37 am

Please note this page https://sourceforge.net/p/rusefi/code/HEAD/tree/trunk/hardware/frankenso/known_issues.txt

That page shows the changes that happened between R0.2 and the current R0.4 boards. If you have not started populating the board yet you may want to consider using the R0.4 boards as there are many changes that might be of interest. The R0.2 board did allow the major features to work, but there were several issues with things like the knock chip.

matt · Post by **matt** » Fri Nov 11, 2016 11:25 pm

no choice at all. i must end up with r0.2 board since i have 5 copies of them.
all board goes to:

3 for Mitsubishi 4/2 trigger
1 for daihatsu 3 cylinder
1 for bmw e30

this is a group project, me and my friends. as long as supported sequential ign/ijn, it will be ok for us.

Post by **AndreyB** » Fri Nov 11, 2016 11:29 pm

I recommend soldering the power supply first. For Mitsubishi you can skip soldering MAX9926 and use the op-amps for trigger input, this case you skip the worst part of soldering. Keep us posted!

matt · Post by **matt** » Sat Nov 12, 2016 12:23 am

for power supply I am waiting 2-3 part from china since my local online store don't have a stock. something wrote 330 on it. capacitors is it? and still waiting my hot air soldering, maybe arrive today.

kb1gtt · Post by **kb1gtt** » Sat Nov 12, 2016 2:12 am

Yes agreed, the power supply is a first thing. Get it installed and verify it makes 5V. Then verify that it powers the discovery board, then start installing one circuit at a time until you have all the stuff you are looking for. Doing it bit by bit allows you to verify each step. It's a bugger trying to track down an issue with a circuit when you have several to verify.

matt · Post by **matt** » Sat Nov 12, 2016 8:01 am

yes. definitely i will post the progress here.

matt · Post by **matt** » Mon Nov 14, 2016 6:37 am

for warming up purpose.

matt · Post by **matt** » Tue Nov 15, 2016 3:57 am

russian wrote:I've just realized the board on the picture is not version 0.4 - is that your board? are you sure it's worth soldering stm32f4 chip on the board? the red line on the left is about stm32f4 accessory components

Find the right PDFs at https://svn.code.sf.net/p/rusefi/code/trunk/hardware/rusefi_hardware_history/

where could i copy a BOM list of rev0.2 board? my mistake calculating rev0.4 BOM, and try to populate to rev0.2 board.

Post by **AndreyB** » Tue Nov 15, 2016 4:01 am

https://svn.code.sf.net/p/rusefi/code/trunk/hardware/rusefi_hardware_history/frankenso_rev00.20/frankenso/ has https://svn.code.sf.net/p/rusefi/code/trunk/hardware/rusefi_hardware_history/frankenso_rev00.20/frankenso/frankenso.csv file

matt · Post by **matt** » Tue Nov 15, 2016 4:20 am

thanks.. i overlooked that csv file..

matt · Post by **matt** » Tue Nov 15, 2016 8:24 am

i found a different in MCP6004 (rev0.4) and LMV341DR (rev0.2). what i am order from element14 is component for rev0.4 board.
if it can cause a problem if i populate adc amp rev0.4 component to rev0.2 board?

kb1gtt · Post by **kb1gtt** » Tue Nov 15, 2016 11:09 am

Yes the op-amp had an issue when you get closer to the rails. This newer op-amp is much better as you get close to the +5V and 0V voltages. I think the R0.4 had the same pinout, but you should double check that the pins are the same. I recall it will solder properly, but I forget if the pins have the same functions or not.

Post by **AndreyB** » Tue Nov 15, 2016 1:20 pm

The op-amps are compatible, please use 0.4 part on your board

matt · Post by **matt** » Sat Nov 19, 2016 2:28 pm

what i received for D1003 is quite weird. part number is remain 1N5359B without TP at the end.

Post by **AndreyB** » Sat Nov 19, 2016 2:34 pm

This looks does NOT look right at all.

I believe the large black one is 1n4007 for solenoids. D1002 and D1003 are the same part and look the same - small red thingy. Did you have two of these red diodes in the bag?

matt · Post by **matt** » Sat Nov 19, 2016 2:52 pm

maybe my suppliers sent wrong part, at package is labeled as zener diode and i never found yet a zener diode in black colours

Post by **AndreyB** » Sat Nov 19, 2016 2:57 pm

Why qty 1? I believe two red ones per board.

matt · Post by **matt** » Sat Nov 19, 2016 3:19 pm

i ordered base on this BOM.

Post by **AndreyB** » Sat Nov 19, 2016 4:39 pm

0.4 BOM says

D1002,TVS,fairchild,BZX79C20,DIGI,BZX79C20-ND,sky-macau.com,8262743708,,,,,
D1003,TVS,fairchild,BZX79C20,DIGI,BZX79C20-ND,sky-macau.com,8262743708,,,,,

We need @ to understand this.

kb1gtt · Post by **kb1gtt** » Sat Nov 19, 2016 5:51 pm

The BOM for R0.5 is different. That diode should be fine. It's a 24VDC zener, but looks different than prior stuff. On R0.5 it's designed to handle a much longer sustained high voltage input. Which resulted in that diode going to a larger diode. You need to get the BOM for the version that you have. Each version has several BOM changes.

kb1gtt · Post by **kb1gtt** » Sat Nov 19, 2016 6:00 pm

Sorry I was not clear. You have an R0.2 board and you apparently got the BOM for R0.5. The R0.5 board has not been released as of this date. There are many components that are the same, but some are different. You need to use the R0.2 BOM which can be found here.
https://sourceforge.net/p/rusefi/code/HEAD/tree/trunk/hardware/rusefi_hardware_history/frankenso_rev00.20/frankenso/frankenso.csv

About this particular D1003, you can use this newer diode if you want. It should do the same thing as the prior diodes.

matt · Post by **matt** » Sat Nov 19, 2016 10:56 pm

at first I am confusing myself and didn't noted that i have r0.5 BOM.

yes r0.2 with r0.5 bom. if some
of part not compatible, i will change it.,,...

matt · Post by **matt** » Sun Nov 20, 2016 1:02 pm

i not seen any notch on this VNS14NV04. hope it's right orientation.

Post by **AndreyB** » Sun Nov 20, 2016 1:06 pm

Yes looks right - see http://rusefi.com/images/Frankenso/frankenso_0_2_assembled_full_size_3.jpg

Looks at the longer size chip edges - one is angled, that's the notch.

Post by **AndreyB** » Sun Nov 20, 2016 1:07 pm

Before you go forward, does you power supply produce +5 volts?

matt · Post by **matt** » Sun Nov 20, 2016 1:29 pm

not yet. i miss order lm2596, d1004 and 1 or 2 part for power supply. so during my free time i solder part in my hand first.

Post by **AndreyB** » Sun Nov 20, 2016 1:39 pm

plz open http://rusefi.com/images/Frankenso/frankenso_0_2_assembled_full_size_3.jpg and zoom

matt · Post by **matt** » Sun Nov 20, 2016 2:33 pm

matt · Post by **matt** » Sun Nov 20, 2016 2:37 pm

part number for op-amp is mcp6004-i/st. different pinout from lmv324idr.

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[rusEfi] hello all - Mitsubishi #31

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