rusefi.com

Let's compare different services. To be honest I have no clue what is the proper material for a Proteus case so I kind of clicked to the best of my limited understanding

So specific file https://github.com/ksmola/proteus-case/blob/main/proteus_case-top.STL

xometry.com: $720 for 10 copies

Same exact https://github.com/ksmola/proteus-case/blob/main/proteus_case-top.STL

shapeways.com "random plastic" option. Same price $36 per copy regardless of qty 1 or qty 10

@kon says that the magic formula is ender 3 (auto leveling, silent motherboard, direct drive extruder, all metal hotend, octoprint, glass bed)

AndreyB wrote: ↑

Fri Dec 18, 2020 6:27 am

@kon says that the magic formula is ender 3 (auto leveling, silent motherboard, direct drive extruder, all metal hotend, octoprint, glass bed)

An open printer like that will be a problem if you try to run ABS, which is higher temp and way less brittle than PLA so more appropriate for car parts. I think you'll be happier with something you can put sides on and maybe a more rigid frame or you end up running it pretty slow.

I bought a folgertech ft-5 some years ago....and ended up spending the purchase price again in upgrades to get it printing good so I'm scared of super low prices now.

I'd suggest that instead of investing in a 3D printer, you invest in a milling machine
What was rationale behind the 3d-printed case vs aluminum one?

A delta printer with magnetic joints, a duet smart effector, and a BMG dual drive extruder makes for a bulletproof printer. I will never, ever go back to those piece of junk prusa style Cartesian machines, they are a pain in the ass. I would temper your expectations of how autolevel works on a flat bed like that, and getting everything perfectly square and level so that it stands a chance is work, every time you move or bump it you're in for more of the same.

I don't mean to offend anyone, but the ender 3 I see on a google search looks like a pile of shit. It's got the floppy bed, it's got the shitty coaster wheels running against the aluminum extrusion for a linear rail as if it doesn't move at high speeds all the time, and it's got nothing reinforcing the z towers, all things that made my prusa clone a terrible mess. It looks like it has a bowden setup, it has the cheap china hotend, and it looks like it runs on a mega. So, it sounds like step 1 is replace everything. Seems kinda wasteful.

The only thing is you have to buy good mag arms with a delta, not the cheap Chinese junk.

Last, forget buying a kit printer, as everyone who ever bought one ends up replacing half the shit anyway. Just go ahead and build your own from parts. Better that way.

Has anyone tried JLC 3D service yet?

Here is the JLCPCB as ordered above

cool stuff is this nylon! probably feels even better than it seems!

craftcloud3d is a marketplace for 3D printing services. Got two parts in SLA in 8 days for $80.

They use a bunch of different file extensions in this 3D game I need to take notes https://github.com/rusefi/rusefi/wiki/3D-printing-101

this doesn't look like sla. did you mean PLA?

btw, recently I discovered onshape.com - basically, it's an online CAD and it looks way better than fusion360