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2021 Acura RDX
Posted: Thu May 09, 2024 4:43 pm
by AndreyB
Many years ago I had a not so bright orange vehicle with a Honda K engine. It has blown the head gasket for not good reason
So I've decided to purchase a bright orange vehicle, again with Honda K engine, this time GDI and turbo-charged! And Acura Care Extended Warranty
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Re: 2021 Acura RDX
Posted: Thu May 09, 2024 5:01 pm
by AndreyB
Hold on, does this vehicle have THREE separate CAN buses?!
https://github.com/rusefi/rusefi_documentation/blob/master/OEM-Docs/Honda/2021-Acura-RDX-data-lines.pdf
Power steering uses one bus but electronic gear shifter uses two? Two buses between ECU and ECU?
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Re: 2021 Acura RDX
Posted: Tue May 21, 2024 2:27 am
by AndreyB
Active Dumper System, the less fancy one without stroke sensors like on Civic Type R.
Why do they run two dedicated wires to each strut solenoid? Why not shared high side?
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Re: 2021 Acura RDX
Posted: Tue May 21, 2024 7:47 am
by mck1117
AndreyB wrote: ↑Tue May 21, 2024 2:27 am
Why do they run two dedicated wires to each strut solenoid? Why not shared high side?
look at a modern engine harness too, OEMs avoid splices like the plague if they can
Re: 2021 Acura RDX
Posted: Tue May 21, 2024 7:52 pm
by puff
mck1117 wrote: ↑Tue May 21, 2024 7:47 am
look at a modern engine harness too, OEMs avoid splices like the plague if they can
but what's the reason? to simplify diagnostics?
Re: 2021 Acura RDX
Posted: Mon Jul 08, 2024 6:12 pm
by mck1117
puff wrote: ↑Tue May 21, 2024 7:52 pm
mck1117 wrote: ↑Tue May 21, 2024 7:47 am
look at a modern engine harness too, OEMs avoid splices like the plague if they can
but what's the reason? to simplify diagnostics?
Splices are less reliable than running a separate wire to the ECU. Splices are probably actually more expensive too, since they need an extra step of joining multiple wires together, rather than just "wire with something crimped either end" which you can automate.
Re: 2021 Acura RDX
Posted: Tue Aug 06, 2024 12:10 am
by AndreyB
I think it uses an NTK wideband so we have a chance to poke into a running vehicle
Internet says
Blue = Heater +
Yellow = Heater -
Grey Wire = Vs
White Wire = Ion Pump
Black Wire = 0v
My multimeter says 3.5Ohm between blue and yellow, and I have a patch cord ready for poking
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