rusefi.com

----!!!
----!!!
----!!! updated post After finally started!:

A little synopsis on this project:

Car is a Fiat 128 "fork" Zastava 101 (https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Zastava_Skala)

Has swapped 1.5 litter NA engine from UNO/Fiorino ( Engine Code 149C1 )
Multi injection with Fiat Uno turbo intake
200cc Injectors from (IW-042 Dedra Tempra Tipo 1.8 8v )
cylinder head from 1.6 Lancia i.e Engines
Spark from VW/AUDI wasted mode coil pack 032905106B
with custom 10mm spark wires with nearly 0hm resistance from a local store ( https://bit.ly/3BByDpw )

daily-driver tune:
https://rusefi.com/online/view.php?msq=1054
ps: not configured on dyno yet!
This tune will work with some changes to all fiat sohc engine cars.
(Fiat 128, X1/9, Ritmo, Uno, Regata, Tipo, Tempra, Punto GT, Fiorino
Lancia Dedra, Prisma
Zastava 101, Yugo, Florida, Sana
Tofas Dogan, Kartal, Sahin )

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Fiat_128_SOHC_engine



Video & photos:





























//--------------------------------- Original post


Here is my wiring diagram.





*please note that this setup is on an engine that it was not built for.
It is a successful brain transplant from a human to a pig!

As you can understand there are a lot of opportunities to make things the more optimal and efficient.

My first goal is to start the car "as it is". Make only adapters from my 35 pin connector to rusefi ecu.
After a successful start, maybe I will make separate connections for each coil and injector.
But at first I want to have the ability to plug and unplug ECUs.

*note2: a have very little knowledge on electronic diagrams as I am a programmer.
I know how to solder, but I do not trust myself for such a project like this. So I will take a pre-assembled solution.


Two main questions. How to cope the twin relay connections?
ecu pins 23 and 4
twinrelay pins 7 and 10

Would you suggest a MRE or proteus board for this project?
(Crank uses VR)

Both ECUs are able to run this engine as it's fairly simple.
Your main issue will be ignition since your coils are "dumb" and the transistors that drive them are inside the stock ecu. Neither MRE nor Proteus have transistors to drive dumb coils directly.
You will either have to use an external ignition module or change the coils with smart coils that have the ignition module integrated into them.

Στάλθηκε από το VOG-L29 μου χρησιμοποιώντας Tapatalk

The relays will be wired as main relay on pin 4 and fuel pump relay on pin 23.
Pins 7 and 10 are the security code keypad and the diagnostic connector and I don't think you'll use either of these features.

Στάλθηκε από το VOG-L29 μου χρησιμοποιώντας Tapatalk

the 7 and 10 where the pins from relays not form the ecu. sorry for the misunderstanding.

In terms of the dump coils, I think that I will go with the smart coils solution. But not in aftermarket.
I do not want to searching for spare parts after some years and not finding the spesific AEM/MSD part with the special plug.
Maybe from fiat-alfa romeo parts bin
Do you know if these days they use smart coils on there line up?

_____________________________________________
Edit-update:

just finish checking on smart coils. it is pointless!

these 3 links explain why:

https://github.com/rusefi/rusefi/wiki/FAQ-Ignition
https://github.com/rusefi/rusefi/wiki/Vault-Of-Ignition-Parts
http://www.useasydocs.com/Bosch_211.htm

an other decision that i made is to use a secontary wiring for the project so as to have backward compatibility ( changing between two ECUs )

New question:
I was thinking of the Proteus solution, because it has 2 VR inputs, and I wanted to have at the same time vss and VR crank
But choosing Proteus for that is overkill.
Do you think that converting the vss or vr crank to hall, will work?

Ofcource this is a plan for the future. At the moment it matters to simply start the engine.

stayros32001 wrote: ↑

Thu Mar 10, 2022 10:01 pm

Do you think that converting the vss or vr crank to hall, will work?

We just add small board with NCV1124 to convert VR signal to logic and input to second trigger input https://rusefi.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=2023

Today I bought the new harness and I orderd the ignition module ( Bosch 0 227 100 211 )
Quick question, the wiring for the coils should look like This?:





or this?:

Your second picture is correct, one of those pack outputs is ok to drive a wasted spark coil

Yep, second is correct and if in the feature one of the outputs fails you can switch to not used. Consider a heat sink on igniter or mount it on the chassis

Status update: Still collecting parts

Question: I have a push and pull idle valve. How I "count" "steps" to set it in the tuner studio?
manufacturer's site (without any useful details )
https://web.tecalliance.net/magnetimarelli/en/parts/95/219244290500/detail?query=219244290500&numberType=0&groups=1298#@brc/search:Search%2520by%2520any%2520number%2520219244290500;query:219244290500;page:0/detail:219244290500;brandId:95;articleNo:219244290500;query:219244290500;numberType:0;groups:1298

Very few if any users use stepper idle air valves, overall that functionality is below average documented and else.

I will skip the idle valve for now, I will "manually" add air for now.

I am in a POC phase.
Finally I collected all the parts and I turned the key, but no luck!
For some reason I cannot drive the Relays. I hear a sound for only a sec, and then, nothing!
Of course I will check again everything but I will bypass it tomorrow.
Do we know relays that are compatible with MRE and have lot of outputs?

Can you make a diagram to show us how you have connected your MRE? What pin of MRE goes to what pin of engine harness and then upload your tune to Rusefi online to verify it's setup correctly. The Peugeot 106 uses a very similar main relay and the MRE drives it without a problem.

Στάλθηκε από το VOG-L29 μου χρησιμοποιώντας Tapatalk

I have put the pin no10 (from relay, first post picture) to MRE pin 29
I will try now to drive relay with hi-side output as fuel pump relay

Pins are correct. Measuring with a multimeter do you have 12V at pin 10 of the main relay when you turn the key on the ignition?

Στάλθηκε από το VOG-L29 μου χρησιμοποιώντας Tapatalk

no key, pin 29(mre) has, 0,9V
when i turn the key pin 29 has 1.2v!!
tuner studio reads 12.3v battery



edited:
replaced with new tune
https://rusefi.com/online/view.php?msq=1054

Do you have 12V at pin #1 and #5 of MRE?

Στάλθηκε από το CLT-L09 μου χρησιμοποιώντας Tapatalk

yes, both 1,5 have 12V+ and the dropp normaly () when I turn the key

Where do you connect pin 1 of your main relay?

Στάλθηκε από το CLT-L09 μου χρησιμοποιώντας Tapatalk

Mre pin 1

Update:
Didn’t try to start it again and fix the problems but I bought today a LSU4.9

Because it is second-hand (scrap yard / recycling cars center) is it possible to know if it’s good or bad? I mean without starting the car!
Could I give at MRE 12V and get a very - very lean reading by having the sensor on desk?

What wideband controller do you use? Anyway, probably yes, you can at least test that the sensor shows very lean while sitting on the desk. You can hold a lighter up to the tip of the sensor (lit or unlit) and you should see a response.

mck1117 wrote: ↑

Wed May 04, 2022 10:02 pm

What wideband controller do you use? Anyway, probably yes, you can at least test that the sensor shows very lean while sitting on the desk. You can hold a lighter up to the tip of the sensor (lit or unlit) and you should see a response.

actually it is your controller!
but the version of the addon board by JRD McLAREN

Nearly to a success story.


After a lot troubleshooting we finaly started the car!
Many thanks to my friends Panos and Mitsos for their suggestions!

Now we are facing a problem that it seams to be firmware problem.
We have the same problem like Abricos

( )


Abricos says that with old firmware has not problems like this.
Any suggestions?

(I am refering to usb connection and no bluetooth connection at all)

stayros32001 wrote: ↑

Mon May 16, 2022 10:16 pm

Abricos says that with old firmware has not problems like this.
Any suggestions?

(I am refering to usb connection and no bluetooth connection at all)

Can you describe the specific problem you're having? What steps to reproduce, and what do you think should happen differently?

mck1117 wrote: ↑

Mon May 16, 2022 10:35 pm

Can you describe the specific problem you're having? What steps to reproduce, and what do you think should happen differently?

there are two states of MRE so far:

state 1 (everything works normal):
no connectiviry issues at all!
we can turn on and of the car normaly.
( mostly with cold engine )



state 2: (everything goes wrong )
(mostly with warm engine and fan working also)
(fan is not connected at MRE, it is auto)


MRE starts to connect and disconect.
we tried a lot of cables, places to put the MRE etc, no luck.
checked all the ground connections etc.
also when MRE goes to crazy side, we can not turn of the car!
We turn the key, but the mre continues to run the engine!
We have to go to the menu and press engine stop, or just disconect the pumb to kill it!
when the MRE goes to the crazy side it will remain for a lot of hours!
BUT without usb connected to pc, we can turn on and of the car normaly.

so, crazy side:
everything is unpluged (ecu,laptop)
plug everything and turn the key,
disconects in less than a minute,
re-plug usb, or just wait and it connects!
do you want to shut down? unplug the pump!
if in the next time you turn the key, but not connect the usb, turns on and off great All of the times.
if then you connect the usb?! crazy side!

Updates:

It was a firmware issue!
After updating to the latest release (i was on version 20220126) all the connectivity issues are totally gone!

But:!
At the same time a new problem popped up!

during the update I was having connected the wideband add-on board. After the update the WBO stopped working and the led lights that there is a bootloader issue started to blink.

A bought an ST-link and started the flashing progress.

Now the real problem:
I got the .bin from https://github.com/mck1117/wideband/blob/master/for_rusefi/wideband_image_with_bl.bin
But only the version at july 2021 works, all the other versions not!

what I mean works:

july 2021 .bin
wbo starts, exits bootloader and wait for sensor. If there is sensor it heats the sensor and enters in normal operation mode. If no sensor is connected, after 30s led is flashing for 3 times. In theory the WBO works perfect, but NO CAN communication at all!

All the other .bin versions (newer) heat the sensor for ever!
No matter if the 30s have past, or if the sensor is connected, the led blinks constantly at heating mode.

Now with the CAN problem:


and wbo is connected this way:


TS settings:




Any suggestions?

Also STM32CubeProgrammer can not connect with Wbo
ST LINK works only on Auto mode:

Soooo many things at the same time