rusefi.com

My girlfriend drives a Nissan Versa. By that, I mean that I take apart her Versa for fun.

It has a 1.8 liter MR18DE. Double overhead cam, single (intake) VVT, electronic throttle. It has a CVT - so some CAN integration will be required to be able to drive it.

And yesterday, I started the car on rusEFI!



Todo list:

• O2 sensor
• Trigger configuration (currently running on cam-only, no crank)
• VVT!
• CAN data to keep the cluster and TCU happy
• MAF calibration

Injectors characterized! Connected a battery charger to hold the car at 14 volts, locked the fuel pump on, and fired pulses of different duration using rusEFI. Crunched some numbers, and ended up with 323 cc/min.

(grumble grumble, you have to remove the whole intake manifold to get the injectors out)

mck1117 wrote: ↑

Mon Dec 13, 2021 11:03 pm

(grumble grumble, you have to remove the whole intake manifold to get the injectors out)

why note eBay similar injectors?

Next question: wideband o2 sensor. These cars (and lots of other Japanese cars of the era) have a weird wideband sensor that's sort of like a narrowband, but with different control system behaves as a wideband. Not as good as a Bosch LSU4.9, but still very usable, and without losing any accuracy over a traditional narrowband sensor.

I've attached some papers about this type of sensor.

Here's the key part:
Apply about 0.4 volts, then measure the current source/sink of the sensor. Current flowing out of sensor, rich. Current flowing in to sensor, lean. Conveniently, the current is linear with respect to phi (reciprocal of lambda), with a different slope on either side of stoichiometric.

Apply voltage, measure current: Hey, that's something I can do with a lab power supply and a multimeter:
(I know the lab supply shows 0.5 volt, but that's because the internal display is slightly out of cal, it's outputting almost exactly 0.4 volt)

This shows 17uA of current, which corresponds to a very slightly lean mixture.

AndreyB wrote: ↑

Mon Dec 13, 2021 11:12 pm

mck1117 wrote: ↑

Mon Dec 13, 2021 11:03 pm

(grumble grumble, you have to remove the whole intake manifold to get the injectors out)

why note eBay similar injectors?

Well, I have these injectors already connected to a nice Nissan-brand injector test bench (plus Coke bottle and small scale), and (unfortunately) I do not have all of eBay in my garage

Please post tune and log

Help required, I got a uaefi that I wired to a Nissan MR18 engine but I can't seem to get a good trigger sync. In tunerstudio it says fuel cut: engine sync, IGN cut: engine sync. Under trigger settings I got the primary trigger set to "MR18 Crank" and the cam set to "MR18" with this configuration I don't get trigger ok at the lower portion of the screen when trying a start. I have to set the cam to "HR12DD in" and trigger ok appears after a few cranks however, fuel cut: engine sync, IGN cut: engine sync are still present and I'm getting no spark or fuel.

Also I can't seem to get the ETB to work, have both the APPS and TPS setup but no movement on the throttle plate. If I hit auto calibrate it goes fully open then close, however it stays about 25% open and the TPS reads ~75% if the plate is sent fully open manually it goes to zero. To fix this issue I inverted the TPS values but still no movement.

Today I tried another crank trigger 36-2-1 which is very close to the MR18 36-2-2 and was able to get a start so I'm assuming there's an issue with the "MR18 Crank" pattern or it's just different from my Crank pattern. Still was unable to get the ETB to work.

Sent from my 2311DRK48G using Tapatalk

Today I tried another crank trigger 36-2-1 which is very close to the MR18 36-2-2 and was able to get a start so I'm assuming there's an issue with the "MR18 Crank" pattern or it's just different from my Crank pattern. Still was unable to get the ETB to work.

Sent from my 2311DRK48G using Tapatalk