Hi from Narrabeen FZR250 plan
Posted: Thu Oct 01, 2020 4:53 am
Hi There,
I've long been considering doing EFI on the 1989 FZR250 which needs an alternative to the problematic CV carbs!
There also no satisfactory, economical alternative to the carbs - there are Keihin FCR carbs at over $2000 a set, which is twice the value of the bike.
This thread gave me inspiration
https://www.2fiftycc.com/index.php?threads/cbr250rr-mc22-efi-project.11151/
Using the original carbs as throttle bodies was a very clever move and less expense and less hassle.
Anyway given that all of the service manuals are in Japanese, specs are scarce, we don't even have an ignition map, and it has an exhaust valve EXUP which I will keep.
The other basic hurdle to EFI on the bike has been the cost of the various ECU's - more than the value of the bike, great for a project if you happen to have an ECU laying around unused, but very unlikely to gather any momentum amongst other owners.
My stepwise approach is going to hopefully enthuse other 250 owners on the www.2fiftycc.com forums, as there are plenty of other that would love to do EFI, at the right price...
Then I spotted this project
https://grassrootsmotorsports.com/forum/build-projects-and-project-cars/diy-ecu-build-thread/79518/page1/
That's not the first page that I read about this project, but that's amazing work right there, and here we are.
I've done more reading than I probably should have before writing this message - hopefully I have absorbed enough to make sense and not too much so as to have confused myself, and as I am writing this message, it is getting longer than I had intended or anticipated...
Big shout out to @Old grey for the instructional videos
https://rusefi.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=1566
I've got a hot air station for SMD work/rework, various mutlimeters and an oscilloscope - very old Hameg 205-3 - works!
I've done more soldering than I care to remember, up to and including SMD reflow to recover graphics cards and motherboards on occasion.
So I should be good to go - famous last words...
I have Tuner Studio downloaded, not yet installed, about to do the same for RusEFI - then start with a basic project to see what's what - sorry if some of these questions would have been answered by doing that first...
Plan
I intend to start with the stm32f4discovery brain board, not be difficult or obstinate, but to see if I should consider designing a custom board - the reasons for that will become clearer below.
I may go straight to to the MicroRusEFI and just add the extra injector daughter board.
EDIT
I've just seen the Proteus board specs - it's got everything required - will be getting the brain to experiment whilst I get in line for one of those - not going to reinvent the wheel when it already rolls just fine
As I don't have any of the bits and pieces required for EFI, so I'm going to start at the start - get a tachometer signal, replicate it and and obtain an ignition advance map.
I don't know if the crank sensor is a hall effect sensor or a VR sensor - things to learn...
Then I'll see if can put the brain in between the crank sensor signal and the OEM ignition box and have it running on the OEM ignition.
I've already read about the OP amp necessary to do that -
https://rusefi.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=242
I think the above will be handy as I sort the replacement of the OEM ignition
Then sort out the exhaust valve controller.
Then I can get OEM ignition control replaced.
That part right there may be of particular interest to other older bike owners with failed ignition boxes, or just if they would like adjustable ignition curves
Currently the bike runs TCI ignition, wasted spark, I'd like to convert it to sequential spark with pencil coils.
The pencil coil conversion has already been done with the wasted spark configuration. I'm aiming for sequential from the outset.
From there going to CDI with pencil coils.
I also need to read up on whether or not the coil dwell time is configurable to avoid going to pencil coils which can work with TCI and then having to purchase another set which works with CDI. - Work for me to do.
The DC CDI will hopefully just be a dumb, 4 channel igniter unit which takes the signal from the brain board as I don't want that sort of voltage travelling across the bike from the ECU to the coils.
Open to suggestions on dumb CDI igniters, needs to be 4 channel obviously or I might just get 4 GY6 units and rehouse them.
The reason for the CDI ignition is that they rev to 18K RPM and actually make max power at 16K RPM - that is where they get really fun - think Formula 1 Sound at almost legal speeds. Power drops off sharply, there may be many reasons, valve float, airbox &/or carb &/or exhaust restrictions or spark strength, or all of those things.
So I'll need to sort out a cam position sensor - I already have an idea on the potential location.
More research to do, for instance would the cam position sensor for #1 firing need to indicate that cylinder is about to fire @ maximum advance, which for this bike is 44 degrees BTDC.
I literally do not have an EFI bike available to be able to check that - it's just something which makes sense to me, no point telling an ignition control box that a cylinder is about to fire after it should have fired when the advance is at maximum.
I have question on placement of the MAP or MAF sensor as the bike obviously has 4 carbs, so is there a preferred location for the sensor and what length tubing would likely adversely affect the vacuum signal received.
I think the most sensible placement of the tubes themselves is the rubber carb manifolds which go to the cylinder head as they already have facility for tube connections to a manometer used when balancing the carbs.
I assume a 4 -> 2 -> 1 tube of the correct stiffness to the MAP or MAF sensor will give a clear signal for the ECU.
Question, will the ECU with cam position sensor be able to differentiate which cylinder is on the intake stroke to be able to balance the throttle bodies?
MAP or MAF - I know this is an open debate, so I have more to read.
Obviously a TPS is absolutely necessary as is a wideband O2 sensor and a 300 KPA fuel pump, intake air sensor and calibrate the NTC coolant temperature sensor.
Now the reason for staged injection - these little bikes although they're only 250's are very driveable at lower revs by virtue of the exhaust valve, it creates enough back pressure in the exhaust at low RPM so that the valve overlap doesn't see a significant amount of short circuiting of fresh charge straight out of the exhaust, yet maintains excellent high RPM performance - no this isn't a sales brochure - I actually commuted 75Kms/day for 2.5 years on this bike - they're loads of fun to ride at all speeds.
So I want to have a small injector for low RPM very close to the cylinder head to give good idle and low RPM response and a larger shower injector for higher RPM - spraying into the venturi.
I'll stop now, so as not to inundate everyone with this first message
Glenn
I've long been considering doing EFI on the 1989 FZR250 which needs an alternative to the problematic CV carbs!
There also no satisfactory, economical alternative to the carbs - there are Keihin FCR carbs at over $2000 a set, which is twice the value of the bike.
This thread gave me inspiration
https://www.2fiftycc.com/index.php?threads/cbr250rr-mc22-efi-project.11151/
Using the original carbs as throttle bodies was a very clever move and less expense and less hassle.
Anyway given that all of the service manuals are in Japanese, specs are scarce, we don't even have an ignition map, and it has an exhaust valve EXUP which I will keep.
The other basic hurdle to EFI on the bike has been the cost of the various ECU's - more than the value of the bike, great for a project if you happen to have an ECU laying around unused, but very unlikely to gather any momentum amongst other owners.
My stepwise approach is going to hopefully enthuse other 250 owners on the www.2fiftycc.com forums, as there are plenty of other that would love to do EFI, at the right price...
Then I spotted this project
https://grassrootsmotorsports.com/forum/build-projects-and-project-cars/diy-ecu-build-thread/79518/page1/
That's not the first page that I read about this project, but that's amazing work right there, and here we are.
I've done more reading than I probably should have before writing this message - hopefully I have absorbed enough to make sense and not too much so as to have confused myself, and as I am writing this message, it is getting longer than I had intended or anticipated...
Big shout out to @Old grey for the instructional videos
https://rusefi.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=1566
I've got a hot air station for SMD work/rework, various mutlimeters and an oscilloscope - very old Hameg 205-3 - works!
I've done more soldering than I care to remember, up to and including SMD reflow to recover graphics cards and motherboards on occasion.
So I should be good to go - famous last words...
I have Tuner Studio downloaded, not yet installed, about to do the same for RusEFI - then start with a basic project to see what's what - sorry if some of these questions would have been answered by doing that first...
Plan
I intend to start with the stm32f4discovery brain board, not be difficult or obstinate, but to see if I should consider designing a custom board - the reasons for that will become clearer below.
I may go straight to to the MicroRusEFI and just add the extra injector daughter board.
EDIT
I've just seen the Proteus board specs - it's got everything required - will be getting the brain to experiment whilst I get in line for one of those - not going to reinvent the wheel when it already rolls just fine
As I don't have any of the bits and pieces required for EFI, so I'm going to start at the start - get a tachometer signal, replicate it and and obtain an ignition advance map.
I don't know if the crank sensor is a hall effect sensor or a VR sensor - things to learn...
Then I'll see if can put the brain in between the crank sensor signal and the OEM ignition box and have it running on the OEM ignition.
I've already read about the OP amp necessary to do that -
https://rusefi.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=242
I think the above will be handy as I sort the replacement of the OEM ignition
Then sort out the exhaust valve controller.
Then I can get OEM ignition control replaced.
That part right there may be of particular interest to other older bike owners with failed ignition boxes, or just if they would like adjustable ignition curves
Currently the bike runs TCI ignition, wasted spark, I'd like to convert it to sequential spark with pencil coils.
The pencil coil conversion has already been done with the wasted spark configuration. I'm aiming for sequential from the outset.
From there going to CDI with pencil coils.
I also need to read up on whether or not the coil dwell time is configurable to avoid going to pencil coils which can work with TCI and then having to purchase another set which works with CDI. - Work for me to do.
The DC CDI will hopefully just be a dumb, 4 channel igniter unit which takes the signal from the brain board as I don't want that sort of voltage travelling across the bike from the ECU to the coils.
Open to suggestions on dumb CDI igniters, needs to be 4 channel obviously or I might just get 4 GY6 units and rehouse them.
The reason for the CDI ignition is that they rev to 18K RPM and actually make max power at 16K RPM - that is where they get really fun - think Formula 1 Sound at almost legal speeds. Power drops off sharply, there may be many reasons, valve float, airbox &/or carb &/or exhaust restrictions or spark strength, or all of those things.
So I'll need to sort out a cam position sensor - I already have an idea on the potential location.
More research to do, for instance would the cam position sensor for #1 firing need to indicate that cylinder is about to fire @ maximum advance, which for this bike is 44 degrees BTDC.
I literally do not have an EFI bike available to be able to check that - it's just something which makes sense to me, no point telling an ignition control box that a cylinder is about to fire after it should have fired when the advance is at maximum.
I have question on placement of the MAP or MAF sensor as the bike obviously has 4 carbs, so is there a preferred location for the sensor and what length tubing would likely adversely affect the vacuum signal received.
I think the most sensible placement of the tubes themselves is the rubber carb manifolds which go to the cylinder head as they already have facility for tube connections to a manometer used when balancing the carbs.
I assume a 4 -> 2 -> 1 tube of the correct stiffness to the MAP or MAF sensor will give a clear signal for the ECU.
Question, will the ECU with cam position sensor be able to differentiate which cylinder is on the intake stroke to be able to balance the throttle bodies?
MAP or MAF - I know this is an open debate, so I have more to read.
Obviously a TPS is absolutely necessary as is a wideband O2 sensor and a 300 KPA fuel pump, intake air sensor and calibrate the NTC coolant temperature sensor.
Now the reason for staged injection - these little bikes although they're only 250's are very driveable at lower revs by virtue of the exhaust valve, it creates enough back pressure in the exhaust at low RPM so that the valve overlap doesn't see a significant amount of short circuiting of fresh charge straight out of the exhaust, yet maintains excellent high RPM performance - no this isn't a sales brochure - I actually commuted 75Kms/day for 2.5 years on this bike - they're loads of fun to ride at all speeds.
So I want to have a small injector for low RPM very close to the cylinder head to give good idle and low RPM response and a larger shower injector for higher RPM - spraying into the venturi.
I'll stop now, so as not to inundate everyone with this first message
Glenn