rusefi.com

I'm using a molex 35 pin connector, the same as used on the Microsquirt. They're reasonably priced can be purchased from Mouser or Digikey.
https://au.mouser.com/ProductDetail/571-1-776230-5

I make a trigger wheel for the M104 and M103 engines that utilises a Hall effect sensor.
https://www.gptechservices.com.au/store/p1/Mercedes_M103_and_M104_trigger_wheel_system..html

Here's the pinout to board spreadsheet.
https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1OOoe_ynKDktC8QKhtsXVGpoWAwRWxtStZHz4DSANlzY/edit?usp=sharing

3D printed adapter to suit the case that the rusEFI comes in.

Soldering hanging wires to a connector like this is blah. Generally wires are better when soldered into a hole. Would a break out board for this connector be of interest? Something similar to the one linked below.
https://rusefi.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=4&t=507

I wonder if there is a more clean way to get around the corner. I suspect you plan for the 90 degree bend to be done via a pile of wires.

kb1gtt wrote: ↑

Wed Jun 06, 2018 9:21 am

Soldering hanging wires to a connector like this is blah. Generally wires are better when soldered into a hole. Would a break out board for this connector be of interest? Something similar to the one linked below.
https://rusefi.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=4&t=507

I wonder if there is a more clean way to get around the corner. I suspect you plan for the 90 degree bend to be done via a pile of wires.

I agree, that's why I'll be crimping sockets to the wires to connect to the back of the connector. Using male arduino jumpers to solder to the rusEFI board.
https://www.adafruit.com/product/758
https://au.mouser.com/ProductDetail/571-7708541

They make male / female jumper wires like the below. It's not a nice ribbon like the one you show, but it has both sides already crimped. I'm also not sure how well it will fit the connector pins, if at all.
https://www.seeedstudio.com/1-Pin-Female-Male-Jumper-Wire-125mm-%2850pcs-pack%29-p-1319.html

kb1gtt wrote: ↑

Wed Jun 06, 2018 10:08 am

They make male / female jumper wires like the below. It's not a nice ribbon like the one you show, but it has both sides already crimped. I'm also not sure how well it will fit the connector pins, if at all.
https://www.seeedstudio.com/1-Pin-Female-Male-Jumper-Wire-125mm-%2850pcs-pack%29-p-1319.html

The pin size is too big on the molex connector.

Finally got the rusEfi wired up to the connector. I had to print a deeper socket for the connector to mount to.
Anyone reading this and is thinking about buying the rusEfi, don't do what I did and buy it without the 64 pin connector that is optionally sold with the unit. This was a mistake and has taken more time than I would've liked to wire up to the 35 pin connector.
The reason I did it this way was because I already had the 35 pin connector.

For sure the time and motivation with dealing with a connector is blah. I understand the goal of saving a buck. However it takes allot of time and motivational energy dealing with assembly. I for sure would agree with you to get the pre-assembled boards.

Also as a suggestion for people who are looking to interface with an existing harness with an engine which is currently operational, I would suggest considering getting a ECU side of the connector, perhaps extracted from a salvage yard, then install it on a breakout PCB. As well get the rusEFI with a pigtail, or get a harness side connector with a pigtail from salvage yard. Then solder this pigtail to the breakout board. This will allow swapping between a functional ECU to this ECU as you learn how to tune and how to get things going.

Also don't for get the migration board. This board allows you to move wire cyl at a time, and tune such that cyl 4 is connected to rusEFI, while the other 3 are connected to an functional setup. Once you have tuned rusEFI such that it functions well, you can then move some fuses as connectors and connect the other cyl's one by one.
https://rusefi.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=4&t=454

The M104 is a K-jet mechanical injected motor.
So there is no ecu connector to chop into.

I've made a fuel rail and TPS adapter and also using 60lb Siemens DEKA injectors.

haha.
for cis injection (k-jet) I am still considering building an electronic WUR (MAP sensor for engine load, temperature sensor for measuring block temperature, eletronic pressure gauge to measure fuel pressure, large injector to reduce fuel pressure and some electronic brain to control the thing).
People say, the physical quality of the fuel mixtrue from those continuous injection systems pretty much resembles that of the carburetor, unlike that in electronic controlled injectors.

puff wrote: ↑

Fri Jun 08, 2018 12:08 pm

haha.
for cis injection (k-jet) I am still considering building an electronic WUR (MAP sensor for engine load, temperature sensor for measuring block temperature, eletronic pressure gauge to measure fuel pressure, large injector to reduce fuel pressure and some electronic brain to control the thing).
People say, the physical quality of the fuel mixtrue from those continuous injection systems pretty much resembles that of the carburetor, unlike that in electronic controlled injectors.

They work well if everything is in good condition, but these cars are old and parts are expensive or unavailable for the injection system, so if you want to keep the car on the road then EFI is really your best option.
This one has 250,000km, and dyno'd at 154hp with CIS injection and stock ignition.

I started the car today no problem , I'll shoot a video of it running tomorrow.

It seems the idle isn't working so I added the shunt diode but ran out of time to see if it made any difference.

gptech2444 wrote: ↑

Thu Jun 14, 2018 9:59 am

I started the car today no problem , I'll shoot a video of it running tomorrow.

Looking forward! Is this going to be rusEfi first Mercedes?!

How is your project going? Any updates or questions or videos?

It's running but I've had to put it on the back burner for now.

Needs to be tuned.