rusefi.com

Hey everyone. Been gone for awhile but back to playing with RusEFI. Teh prelude is gone and for now the 73 C20 is back on GM PCM due to unforeseen issues. (Water got in the car I was using as a PGM-FI donor for this car, so i need to order another Frankenso ASAP).

Anyways - A few questions:

Right now i'm trying to get as much data logging as possible on the carb setup -- For now I have wbo2 and MAP, wanting to get RPM signal.

The distributor on this engine has 2 plugs, both with BLUE and BLACK/YELLOW wires going to them. One plug has a much larger black/yellow wire than the other -- i'm going to assume that's the 12V input. The other plug goes to the dist. cap, so it's some kind of pickup.

for a picture of the pickup mechanism. My question is how do i interface this to frankenso so i can log RPM values? For now all i want to do is log how the engine runs on carb, then when we get to it, we will make frankenso actually control fuel and spark with PGM-FI intake.

The car has an A18A from a Japanese prelude, with A18A1 (American Accord 1.8L) intake running a single Keihin carb. We have removed all the vacuum insanity, and it runs pretty decent but stupidly rich... I get about 20mpg whereas my last PGM-FI engine of similar size i got almost 45! So we're going to swap the head off my donor car, intake, and fuel tank.


Thanks!

3gAccord wrote:it's some kind of pickup.

This is what we need to know. You say it has 2 wires, so it could be a VR. I'm sure this car has a schematic I would say find a schematic for the car and see what it shows for the pick up.

Also need details on how many teeth and the shape. We can record and figure it out but usually there is info on the internet just the question of googling and opening your dizzy to confirm.

those Honda engines use to have a ignition with everything inside including the coil and the ignition module, they have only 4 tooth as work as a basic or standard CAS. The plug only have +- and feedback to the ECU.
and the sensor inside is a VR. I remember working with one and i take the trigger directly from the sensor and supply back with a igniter to the inside coil.

Can you get access to just the VR part of that? The electronics of the OEM create all sorts of potential issues. If you can get the VR wires extended to the rusEFI board, that would probably be the best.