My hope is that the car will actually run as-is. Looking at your logs, the ECU never really gets a chance to complete two injection/ignition cycles to start the car. AS
@AndreyB already pointed out, rusEFI is not quite at OEM ECU speed when it comes to recognizing cranking. This means that it will typically take about two full revolutions of the crank before the ECU actually knows where the crank is. THEN it starts injecting fuel and sparking.
Your logs show 1.5s of actual rpm readings at best. Considering that the ECU may not be perfectly tuned for your engine yet, this is likely not enough time. Give it 10, or better, 15-20s of cranking. It will seem like an eternity. But at 240rpm, it's only 2 cycles per cylinder per second. Considering that the ECU starts seeing the crank position after maybe 2-3s, even with 10s cranking you only get 10-15 cycles for the engine to catch.
If you don't succeed first try, play with the throttle a little.
Hints:
You don't need to remove a spark plug from the engine to test spark. You can also use a spare spark plug you may have lying around somewhere. Or you can put something else (made of conducting metal) in the spark plug boot and have it arc to ground (valve cover). The goal is to have a metal connection to the outlet of your coil and a small air-gap from that piece of metal to an engine ground- usually the valve cover.
Try a Phillips head screwdriver for example. Push it into the spark plug boot. Take care to not expand the metal clip in the boot. The diameter should probably be about 3/16" or so (best guess). Try and have the closest distance between the metal object and the valve cover between 1/16" and 1/8". That should work for a nice, visible spark.
You don't need to swap the rusEFI into the stock housing for testing purposes. I use a piece of cardboard and masking or electric tape to insulate the bottom of the pcb and then just plug it in like that.
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