Toyota 80 Series 1FZ-FE Trigger

[DanielGaviria]

Hello everyone

I am planning to install an mRE r0.6.0 in this truck that initially had a diesel engine and they installed a 1FZ-FE gasoline engine that is very popular these days, it is a 4,500cc inline 6 cylinder engine.



This engine originally has a distributor with a trigger inside, a coil and an external igniter, the plan is to convert it to Wated Spark as it comes a generation later of the same engine, which already has a 36-2 trigger on the crankshaft.

This is an image of the distributor trigger, it has 3 VR sensors, a 24-tooth trigger and a 1-tooth home trigger.




Trigger + is connected to the VR/HALL input and Home + to the HALL input, the mass of the 3 sensors is the same

This is a very good guide from Haltech on this engine with a lot of useful information.

https://support.haltech.com/portal/en/kb/articles/fz-engine

The idea I have is to use the sensor with the 24-tooth wheel and one of the 2 cam sensors, as shown in the Haltech guide, for the mRE I would use an external converter for the cam signal.

I tried this configuration on the test bench, but I can't get it to read well below 2000 Rpms, I leave the logs and the tune that I am using, keep in mind that I have not installed it yet, I am testing everything on the test bench .

https://www.rusefi.com/online/view.php?msq=1569

This video shows the behavior it has, I am moving the distributor with the help of a drill, at low speed it does not read rpms, from approximately 2000 rpms, it reads the rpms and apparently it works ok, on the small oscilloscope you can see the Home signal after signal converter

[media]https://youtube.com/shorts/3oR2Xa-9kP4?si=Z6uKbQtNRqjYQogM[/media]

The IAC valve of this motor is a 6-wire stepper, following the connection suggested by the Haltech guide, it works perfectly with the mRE.



I am still very new with mRE, I don't know why I am suddenly connected incorrectly or what configuration I need, please, any additional data or log I will be sending it to you as soon as possible

Thank you very much for your time!

[AndreyB]

Yellow is one of the two best colors, love your truck!

Please update your firmware there has been enough minor improvements since July

You have at least two problems with your trigger setup

a) 24/0 would not do what you need you need to use https://github.com/rusefi/rusefi/wiki/All-Supported-Triggers#honda-k-112-crankshaft https://github.com/rusefi/rusefi_documentation/issues/227

b) you need to specify cam input mode

image.png (75.01 KiB) Viewed 6800 times

Since you have no skipped tooth reading this signal has the least amount of logic possible - you just count events. If you do not read events you have some electrical problem - either sensor or gap or capacitors.

[DanielGaviria]

Thanks Andrey, I have firmware 20231007, I think that when I opened the tune on another PC to name the car I put another old .ini file in it

Here is the correct tune that I am using with the recommendations that you told me:

https://rusefi.com/online/view.php?msq=1570

but I think I found the problem, this is the signal that the home sensor is delivering:



For some reason it detects those small peaks that I assume are what are causing problems, In the tune I have the cam and crank inputs inverted, I tried converting the crank signal with an external VR to Hall converter and giving it the cam signal as VR and I realized this.



I think that because of how close it is to the 24-tooth wheel, it is able to capture them or it could also be that since they share the same ground, the signals from the other sensor are filtered.

Can something be done with this? Or would it be best to remove a tooth from the wheel with 24 teeth to leave a 24-1 wheel?

Thanks again for your help

[AndreyB]

is that sensor hall or VR? how was MRE populated in terms of hardware difference between VR and Hall?

[DanielGaviria]

is that sensor hall or VR? how was MRE populated in terms of hardware difference between VR and Hall?

Hi!, both sensors are VR, these are the shapes of the signals

cam sensor:



24 teeth crank:



and this way I have the VR/Hall sensor section populated:



I removed all the components in the hall section and also removed R15, which I don't know if it is correct.

for the cam signal I am using an external VR to hall signal converter, which I suspect may be the problem

I don't know why yesterday it was showing me such strange signals, it is most likely poorly connected to the osiloscope.