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This is nice. I was able to start from cold and get idle to work with setting idle position to 35. Other than that it's the default firmware settings.

[video][/video]

Yep, that was it. The igniter wires were swapped. It started up just fine and I drove around the block. Getting it to start again after running for a bit is difficult. I don't have a wide band o2 sensor on yet. But, it's good to have it going again after. I'll get the wide band on and work on some t...

Thanks Russian, I'll check my wiring again, and do more testing.

Hi, can you describe the Miata you have:

> Im working on a NB Miata 1.6 turbo (need ECU)

Is that really a 1.6L? I thought all NB models were 1.8L.
I have a '90 Miata with stock 1.6L that I'm planning to get started on next.

Tom

What engine did you end up with, a 1.6 or 1.8?

Great see another Miata up and running. How about a video for proof of life? I'm just about ready to get back into rusefi, and get my 1990 Miata going on it.

I need get it legal again with inspection and license.

Hello after a long absence. Remember the clutch squeal? I just replaced the clutch and think I see the root cause. I think the throw out bearing was seizing up occasionally and grinding against the pressure plate. I put in a new clutch, fly wheel and throw out bearing, and other parts and got it run...

russian wrote:

russian wrote:Doing nothing but banging my head against two walls for the next ~10 days now
https://sourceforge.net/p/rusefi/tickets/155/

This was a bug in Chibi serial driver: https://sourceforge.net/p/chibios/bugs/558
#155 is now closed

Good to see that bug fixed. It looked like a tough one.

Thanks a lot, that was it. set_idle_pwm at 28 puts me to idle at 1000.

I'm back after a long break. From updating to latest firmware I'm running again. And I have a working WBO now. I was able to start from a cold engine just now, and it runs fairly smoothly. A bit of a hiccup ever 5 or 10 seconds. AFR shows 9 to 10 range. Idle RPM sits steady around 1900. Changing idl...

This faq shows differences per model year:
http://www.miata.net/faq/miatachanges.html

And says:

The 1998 was not produced. The 1997 extended late, and the 1999 was introduced early to fill the 1998 production year.

Coverity scan updates are updated here:

https://scan.coverity.com/projects/2803

This thread has some example timing maps for the Miata 1.8L engine:

http://forum.miata.net/vb/showthread.php?t=237921

I guess that doing a disable injectors would kill the engine? Is there any problem doing it that way?

I did roughly the same procedure as @russian: Long story short, my results on the neon: ~900rpm idle with 2.8 ms fuel and idle_pwm 350 And got down to 1.1 ms fuel and idle pwm 320, going lower killed the engine. My WBO showed a lambda down to 1.25, but doesn't change much through the process. I don'...

Yes, I'm sure I'm running too rich. I smell gas, and my family tell me I smell like gasoline after I've been out working on the car.

Thanks, doing the "set_idle_solenoid_freq 500" seems to have eliminated the hum while running. But, now I can hear a 500Hz faint buzz sound coming from the ICV when the engine is off. I think I had the freq set to 250 before and didn't notice it when the engine was not running. I'm trying ...

Update on status, I had some cold solder joints on the frankenstein board that caused some erratic behavior. Now I can start reliably on rusefi when warm, and I'm refining timing and fuel settings. I'm stumbling along with that, any references on tuning would be appreciated. And I got a 14point7.com...

I see there is a new a warning message on the console output about doing "writeconfig" while the ignition switch is on. That is good for safety sake. In my setup running the java console from my linux laptop, when I turn the key switch off and turn back on, Discovery reboots, and I lose my...

I made a of bundle resistors, 5 47 ohm and a 100 ohm, 1/4 watt each, it measured about 8.3 ohms, should handle about 1.5 watts. Here is a picture of the wave form, iac-11-20-14.jpg The buzz is back. And the resistors got pretty hot, only tested for about 10 seconds at a time. Didn't try to start the...

On the fuel pump relay wiring, it looks straight forward. Did you try to ground the Lt grn wire to the relay manually, you should hear the relay to under the dash click.

I ordered a SLC B Free 4.9 with the text display. I'll give it a try.

What about higher idle_pwm values? Too many unknowns and too many variables :( Have you considered http://www.14point7.com/products/slc-free ? If I understand it right, for $85 you get a sensor and a controller capable of linear analog output thus we would be able to integrate it with rusEfi. I tri...

I had set_idle_pwm to 600, it was running very rough around 950 to 1000 rpm. I did not let it run very long. This was warmed more than I usually do. Here is a screen shot of gauges: Screenshot_2014-10-21-11-28-05.png Gauges are upper left: Timing upper right: Coolant temp. Lower middle: MAF It first...

Is it dangerous to do firmware updates while wired up to an engine? I saw a warning in the ms documents about be sure to disconnect injectors or coils while doing an update. Similarly, if the engine type is reset to default, Ford Aspire whatever, after a firmware update, if you are wired up to an en...

After moving the diode to be only across the IAC coil, the trace is closer to what the oem ecu. After setting set_idle_solenoid_freq 300 and set_idle_pwm 350: IMG_20141016_193308.jpg I guess it needs a few more ohms on the power resistors. And here is a shot from the oem ecu to compare. IMG_20141016...

Sorry, I should have described the scope settings. I edited the post above. But oops, now I think I wired this wrong. It looks like IAC 34 Ohm 12 v -----+--LLLL---------rrrrr---+----INJ7 | | +--------|<|------------+ 1N4002 The diode should be just across the coil, right?

Welcome to the club

re: linux tool chain
http://rusefi.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=5&t=690&p=11185#p11185