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Am Aditya from India. I want to switch my single cylinder EFI motorcycle ( Royal Enfield Continental GT 535cc ) to tune it to the mods I've done.
So far I've been surfing the internet for 2 weeks just for figuring out a Standalone ECU model. And the rusEFI Nano is what I want, however I wanted to add Wideband O2 functionality to it.
Is there a way for me to make it work? If yes, how? Attaching photos of the components that come on the bike for reference.
Thanks,
Aditya B.
Statistics: Posted by thefastelephant — Mon Oct 13, 2025 7:03 am
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And I began by tidying up some wiring, and fitted some shorter screws on a fuse box. As I did that I trapped the main unfused ignition power wire going into a non stock fusebox in the engine bay at the back of the VW.
Fortunately the ignition switch at the front was an aftermarket one and it slightly melted and moved the contact out of the way so all I got for my trouble was 2 inches of frazzled wire under the dash, and a squashed bit of wire in the engine bay. Melted the pin on the ignition switch back into place, epoxy glued the pin in place, reassembled the switch with five different little springs in various pockets, spliced some wire and got ignition power and all of the ignition switch contacts working OK again .
Then after a few failures I realised that a Ford EDIS-4 ignition controller with a 36-1 wheel has its missing tooth at 90 degrees BTDC so the RusEFI documents saying 0 degrees were correct in general when installing timing wheels, but wrong for my setup.
I changed the setting to 90 degrees and it started running.
Too fast because the auto choke on the carburettor stayed on because it was not powered. Fixed that and then got it to idle nicely, with closed loop ignition timing idle control .
Statistics: Posted by mikedjames — Sat Oct 11, 2025 5:13 pm
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And I began by tidying up some wiring, and fitted some shorter screws on a fuse box. As I did that I trapped the main unfused ignition power wire going into the fusebox in the engine bay at the back of the VW.
Fortunately the ignition switch was an aftermarket one and it slightly melted and moved the contact out of the way so all I got for my trouble was 2 inches of frazzled wire under the dash, and a squashed bit of wire in the engine bay. Melted the igniton switch back into place, epoxy glued the pin in place, reassembled the switch with five different little springs in various pockets, spliced some wire and got it working OK.
Then I realised that a Ford EDIS-4 ignition controller with a 36-1 wheel has its missing tooth at 90 degrees BTDC so the RusEFI documents saying 0 degrees were correct in general when installing timing wheels, but wrong for my setup.
I changed the setting to 90 degrees and it started running. Too fast because the auto choke on the carburettor stayed on because it was not powered. Fixed that and then got it to idle nicely, with closed loop ignition timing idle control .
Statistics: Posted by mikedjames — Sat Oct 11, 2025 5:11 pm
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"Low Side Output" is a grounding circuit; it either grounds the output or it doesn't. Your rusEFI Low Side Outputs should go to one activation pin of the relay (pin 85 on the relay) and keyed power to the other (pin 86 of the relay). It sounds like you probably did it right.
okey then i did right 
then i don´t know what i did wrong https://ibb.co/q3fXzvF6
i use pin 20 and 21 in the ecu harnes for activate the relay
https://ibb.co/JjWXfxt9 that is my logg with just the usb connected it looks wierd right?
Statistics: Posted by turbomuts — Sat Oct 11, 2025 3:40 pm
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Statistics: Posted by Giobs — Sat Oct 11, 2025 12:50 pm
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I had connected the activation for my main relay and fuel pump relay to B9 Main Relay Weak Low Side Output 1 and B16 Low Side Output 4 / Fuel Pump Relay, but when I looked at the car’s original wiring diagram, those are supposed to be grounded, not receive a control voltage.
Yet the relays still clicked on, so I’ve probably managed to damage something.
Statistics: Posted by turbomuts — Sat Oct 11, 2025 7:22 am
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In an effort to space the timing wheel away from the engine, I had removed it, and replaced it - It has a pair of alignment bolts exactly 180 degrees apart, so I put it on 180 degrees out. So every time the engine wanted to fire, it fired the wrong pair of cylinders on the wrong part of the timing cycle.
As well as having a low output from the VR sensor.
That low output was fixed by the added spacer that allowed the centre of the tip of the sensor to run over the centre teeth of the timing wheel, and reducing the gap of the sensor by resting it on a piece of cardboard on top of the timing wheel while adjusting the fixing bolts.
I also found as a result of picking away at the end of a damaged Ford Fiesta VR sensor (where it was hit by the timing wheel for a while) that it uses a (smashed) 7mm button magnet on the tip of the sensor.
This was replaced with a stack of 5mmx1mm neodymium magnets, effectively reducing the diameter of the tip of the sensor and sharpening up its response. I epoxied the magnets in to place.
It also showed me that these Ford sensors have no directionality to their operation - the sensitive area of the tip of the sensor is a circle.
And finally the engine started.
But not before the carburettor filled the exhaust with so much unburnt fuel that I got a jet of flame about 2 feet long coming out of the exhaust when it fired.
Tomorrow I will get out the timing gun and start going through the setup and tuning - I took a video of the engine running for the first time using the UaEFI as the ignition controller.
Statistics: Posted by mikedjames — Thu Oct 09, 2025 7:24 pm
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With Rusefi, I’m trying to keep it as plug-and-play as possible with such an old ECU setup like LH2.4. In the PnP harness, I’m using the functions for controlling the ignition box, all relays such as the fuel relay, etc. I’ve also wired in the engine temperature sensor and the VR signal from my 60-2 flywheel. However, that stopped working — I’m getting a lot of missing teeth, so I’ll try running separate wires to it, like I already did with the MAP sensor, IAT, and TPS.
I’m afraid I may have damaged the board when I cleaned off the flux residue I missed after soldering the Molex connectors on the board using isopropanol. After that, I started getting interference on the VR signal, and I also get the message “C9012: out-of-order coil of coil 1” in the Rusefi console. I even get that error when I run a spark test in the console with only the Uaefi board connected to the computer.
Statistics: Posted by turbomuts — Wed Oct 08, 2025 12:34 pm
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I have been spending some time trying to get just the ignition system to run, using my existing timing wheel, and learning how to use TunerStudio, and some issues with earth loops causing watchdog timeouts when it did fire, not realising I had to remove the STM32 UART driver from Windows so that it could see the HID serial device and the mass storage device for the logs.
And it would not run, just fire once maybe. Could alter the timing and make it backfire or stop the starter motor by too much advance, by playing with the zero point and the static timing advance.
After a while I got to some of the settings in TS and managed to look at the engine timing phase ramp. Which was ramping 240 degrees and then stopping, resetting a while later and repeating.
What it turned out to be was that the VR signal from the timing wheel was good enough for a Ford EDIS-4 but was still pretty nasty.
The wheel was offset just enough on the end of a stack of hardware to be swinging about 0.5mm - the UAEFI high speed input would count 24 teeth then lose 12 every revolution as the signal got too small. .
I put my trusty Fluke Scopemeter on the VR signal and there it was swinging away - over a volt at the missing tooth but going down to 300mV at the low point.
I swapped to the alternate VR input and that did not work either, counting a different but wrong number of pulses for part of the rotation of the crank.
I am going to centre up the wheel, and have another go soon.
Statistics: Posted by mikedjames — Mon Oct 06, 2025 6:52 pm
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